|Dw symptoms (seen during wash cycles)||Error code display (from cs test program)||Error code led’s|
(active / clean / sanitized)
|No errors||E:00||Off – Lit – Flashing||No errors.|
|Wash cycle abruptly ends with Clean LED glowing OR dw runs without heating (power module problem)||E:01 pump starting / switching defect OR|
E:02 defective working relay OR
E:03 defective heating relay
|Off – Off – Flashing||Replace power module (located in base).|
|Wash cycle abruptly ends with Clean LED glowing||E:20 heat pump winding resistance is wrong OR||Flashing – Off – Flashing||1. Check continuity between heat pump (m2) and power module harness connector.|
2. Measure heat pump resistance between any 2 terminals. If ~ 13Q @ room temp, replace power module. If not, replace heat pump.
| ||E:21 heat pump is blocked / clogged OR|| ||Remove debris / obstructions from heat pump. If pump impeller is stuck, replace heat pump.|
| ||E:23 drain pump winding resistance is wrong OR||Flashing – Flashing – Off||1. Check continuity between drain pump (m3) and power module harness connector.|
2. Measure drain pump resistance between any 2 terminals. If ~ 90Q @ room temp, replace power module. If not, replace drain pump.
| ||E:24 dw won’t drain OR|| ||Remove garbage disposal plug.|
| || || ||Make sure drain hose is < 150” and includes a 20” high loop. Unclog house drain line.|
| ||E:25 drain pump is blocked or sump drain pump cover is missing|| ||1. Remove debris / obstructions from drain pump.|
2. Remove sump drain pump cover and confirm drain pump impeller is turning freely.
3. Make sure sump drain pump cover is seated correctly
|LED is flashing & dw can’t operate||E:06 defective door latch||Off – Flashing – Off||Check continuity between door switch (e1) and power module harness connector.|
| || || ||Measure voltage across door latch connector. If > 10V, replace door latch. If < 10V, replace power module.|
|No heating||E:08 heat pump detects low water level||Off – Flashing – Flashing||1. Check water supply & repair any leaks.|
2. Check continuity between water inlet valve (s2) and power module harness connector.
3. Measure voltage across water inlet valve terminals (s2) during step 1 of customer service test program. If ~ 120V, replace water inlet valve. If not ~ 120V, replace power module.
| ||E:09 open heating element circuit OR|| ||Check continuity between heating element (r1) and power module harness connector.|
| ||E:12 heating element resistances not balanced|| ||Measure heating element (r1) resistance, which should be * 5Q between terminals 1-2 & 2-3 and = 10Q between terminals 1-3 @ room temp. If not, replace heat pump. If so, replace power module.|
| ||E:10 not enough heat|| ||1. Decalcify heater with appropriate cleaner.|
2. If problem persists after heating element has been decalcified, replace heat pump.
| ||E:11 NTC or NTC wiring harness error|| ||1. Check continuity between NTC and power module harness connector.|
2. Measure NTC resistance, which should be * 10kQ between terminals 1- 2 & 2-3 and * 20kQ between terminals 1-3 @ room temp. If not, replace heat pump. If so, replace power module.
| ||E:13 water too hot (> 75°C / 167°F)|| ||Make sure water inlet temp is < 75°C / 167°F.|
|Water doesn’t fill and drain pump runs continually||E:15 float switch activated and dishwasher runs continually||Flashing – Off – Off||1. Remove debris / obstructions from drain pump / drain hose. Make sure float & float switch aren’t stuck.|
2. Make sure water inlet valve isn’t stuck “open”.
3. Check float switch and wire harness (to power module).
|Aqua sensor doesn’t run during wash cycle||E:28 aqua sensor not properly calibrated||Off – Off – Off||1. Check continuity between aqua sensor (14) and power module harness connector.|
2. Make sure aqua sensor is clean where it enters the sump.
3. If electrical connections are good and the aqua sensor is clean, replace the aqua sensor.
|No power||House wiring isn’t 120V|| ||Check house wiring connections and if supply voltage is * 98 – 120VAC to power module harness connector.|
| ||Open “On/Off’ OR “Start” switch|| ||1. Check “On/Off’ switch & power module connections.|
2. Measure “On/Off’ switch resistance. If it’s Q in “on” position, replace it.
3. If only drain pump is running, check if float switch has operated (see E:15 error code above).
4. If no LED’s flash when “On/Off” switch is pressed and the dishwasher door is open, replace operating module (in fascia panel).
|Dispenser not operating||Detergent dispenser door jammed OR loose wiring connections|| ||Make sure dispenser detergent door isn’t jammed.|
| || || ||Check connections between rinse-aid dispenser, dispenser actuator (a2) and power module harness connector.|
| || || ||Check dispenser actuator operation while running customer service test program (steps 15 & 20). If actuator operates, but doesn’t open detergent dispenser cover, replace dispenser. If actuator doesn’t operate, replace power module.|
|Rinse-aid LED is glowing||No rinse-aid OR loose wiring connections|| ||1. Refill rinse aid, if empty.|
2. Check connections between rinse-aid dispenser (e3) & operating module harness connector (K12).
3. Measure voltage between outer most dispenser terminals (1-3 on e3). If ~ 13VDC, replace dispenser. If not, replace operating module.
|No drying||1. No rinse aid|
2. Dispenser rinse aid setting = 0
3. Extra Dry Heat option hasn’t been turned on
| ||1. Educate customer on using and refilling rinse aid.|
2. Set rinse aid setting to “4” if it is at “0”.
3. Activate Extra Dry Heat option, if it’s not activated and is available on the dishwasher.
|Washability issue (heat pump runs, but dishes still dirty)||1. Clogged spray arms or filters.|
2. Spray arms not rotating
| ||1. Remove debris / obstructions from filter and spray arms.|
2. Make sure spray arms are properly attached and rotate freely. Make sure spray arms are properly aligned with the supply tube.
|Dishwasher won’t start||1. Door is ajar|
2. Heat pump has failed
3. Drain pump has failed
| ||1. Educate customer on closing door securely|
2. Replace faulty heat pump
3. Replace faulty drain pump